Polar pathways and Antarctic exploration history in Hobart, Tasmania
In 2011, Hobart celebrates the 100th anniversary of Roald Amundsen’s successful expedition to the South Pole. And, when visiting the Tasmanian capital, it’s possible to stay at the hotel the Norwegian explorer stayed in…
Hobart’s Antarctic heritage
Hobart may get a little chilly, but surely it’s not cold enough to warrant seal furs, skis and giant boots? Such polar get up isn’t quite as out of place as you’d think, however – the Tasmanian capital has a strong Antarctic heritage.
The ice and snow gear is part of the Islands to Ice: Great Southern Ocean and Antarctica exhibition at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery. It’s a wide-ranging and expertly put-together jaunt through Australia’s sub-Antarctic islands, life below freezing and the great explorers of the early 20th century. It touches on everything – from the way the giant block of ice drives the world’s weather patterns to Tasmania’s geographical bond with its southern neighbour.
Tasmania and Gondwana
During the break-up of the Gondwana supercontinent, Tasmania was the glue that kept Australia and Antarctica together, and it was the last bit to break away. Tassie’s glacial lakes are a reminder of this, and as little as 12,000 years ago the indigenous Tasmanians treated icebergs off the coast as a standard sight.
The exhibition is well timed, as a series of landmark centenaries are on the horizon. The first of these is Sir Douglas Mawson and Edgeworth David’s successful bid to become the first men to reach the magnetic South Pole.
The two Australians achieved the feat on January 15th, 1909 after branching off from a British expedition led by Ernest Shackleton. The exploits of Mawson in particular are documented in detail at Islands to Ice.
Life in the Antarctic
But amongst the scale models of Mawson’s Huts (the real things still stand at Commonwealth Bay), biographies and historical fact files, the most fascinating aspects of the exhibition concern what life in the Antarctic is like. The food is something of an acquired taste – olive oil on raw muesli and penguin pie are amongst the delights cooked up by chefs, who are almost universally regarded as the most important people on the station.
Meanwhile there are tales of explorers going insane in the cold isolation, and the measures taken to prevent this mental disintegration. Gyms, well stocked libraries and AFL Grand Final broadcasts via satellite show surprising modernity, whilst the long-held tradition of newcomers being met by men in drag show just how easy it is to get bored.
Polar pathways trail
The exhibition is part of Hobart’s Polar Pathways trail, which pulls together a surprising amount of sites in and around the city with links to the great southern continent. These range from sculptures of Antarctic wildlife by the harbour and outside the Reserve Bank building to the headquarters of various Antarctic agencies.
The most interesting of these is the Australian Antarctic Division, the government agency which administers Australia’s sub-Antarctic territories and the country’s Antarctic research missions. It’s primarily a place of work, but vehicles and equipment are on display for visitors. The photographic exhibition is also hugely impressive.
Hobart is where many of the Antarctic research missions leave from; the scientists and support staff fly out from the airport or sail out from the famous harbour.
Roald Amundsen and Hobart
The most famous Antarctic expedition of all, though, was the one led by Roald Amundsen. The Norwegian was the first to reach the South Pole in December 1911, but the world didn’t find out about it until March 1912 when Amundsen and his crew arrived in Hobart.
News of the momentous achievement was broadcast by telegraph from Hobart’s general post office, on the corner of Macquarie and Elizabeth Street. It was something of a cloak and dagger operation. Amundsen wanted the Norwegian king to hear about it before the rest of the world, and made sure his ship and crew were anchored and quarantined further up the Derwent River to keep the media away.
Service at St David’s Cathedral
Once the news was out, the crew attended a special service at St David’s Cathedral. It was partly to celebrate, and partly to pray for the well-being of the rival (and ill-fated) British party led by Sir Robert Scott. Scott’s sister was present – she was married to the Tasmanian governor.
But despite Amundsen’s celebrity status after the news was out, he wasn’t treated all that well on his arrival in Hobart.
He stayed at the convict-built Hadley’s Hotel on Murray Street, which now milks the link for all it can. A series of (admittedly stunning) pictures of Antarctic scenery and wildlife dot the walls, while it also boasts an ‘Amundsen Suite’, which is intended as a “tribute” to the great explorer.
‘Miserable little room’
Of course, poor old Roald didn’t get the best room in the joint back in 1912. He noted in his diary that he was given “a miserable little room” and “treated like a tramp”. In fairness to the hoteliers at the time, he probably looked like one after months of trudging across an inhospitable landscape without little luxuries such as shaving foam and shower gel.
The hotel is one of 28 separate sites linked by the Polar Pathways initiative, many of which can be covered in a one day walking tour. Although not a patch on Mawson and David’s journey 100 years ago, it still makes for a riveting voyage of discovery.
Details
The Islands to Ice exhibition is at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery on Macquarie Street, Hobart. Entrance is free.
The Australian Antarctic Division HQ is in Kingston, 12km south of Hobart. Entry for visitors is free, but it is closed at weekends.
Rooms at the Grand Mercure Hadley’s Hotel on Murray Street cost from $125 a night.
The Polar Pathways leaflet can be picked up at the Hobart Visitor’s Centre on the corner of Davey and Elizabeth Street.
This article was originally written for Australian Associated Press in January 2009.
